Harris, Outer Hebrides

Previously: Exploring Lewis


As you drive south into Harris, the landscape becomes more rugged, pointed, and wet by the mile. Our Harris accommodation was in Beadarsaig, less than ten minutes walk from Hushinish Beach. This beach is the type of thing that gives the Hebrides its 'frozen  Barbados' reputation - white sands with turquoise waters, but a biting wind.

This stretch of road has very few houses but many many sheep and cows. Luckily, given the time of year, this meant tiny springy lambs and curious soft-nosed highland calves. After dropping our bags off, we wandered down to the beach and around the coastline, keeping a respectful distance from the mamas and babes, taking in the sunset.

Hushinish beach Harris
Hushinish Beach, Harris.

Highland cows Hushinish Beach Harris
Highland cattle on Hushinish Beach, Harris

I mean, seriously, can we believe how glorious these tiny guys are? All feathered coats and knobbly knees. 

Highland cows Hushinish Beach Harris
Highland calf, Hushinish Beach, Harris

The sunset lit up an already-stunning view in pinks and purples. Satisfied with our lot, we headed back to our cottage for dinner, only to find that the owner had made us freshly baked bread and scones with homemade jam. World class local service from the owner, Dotty, without a doubt. Tired from exploring two islands in one day, we crashed out relatively early in our very cosy beds.

Sunset Hushinish Beach Harris
Sunset on Hushinish Beach, Harris

Early the next morning, the hound and I went for a paddle and a play in the waters alone. Once the household awoke we visited Luskintyre Beach for another long walk. Here, we found more sweeping white sands, dunes, and wild horses (who were sure I was hiding treats in my pockets).

Wild horses Luskintyre Beach Harris
Wild horses on Luskintyre Beach, Harris

This lady started approaching me as soon as I took out my camera - she's clearly deservedly used to the spotlight. The other fellow was more interested in the tasty seaweed scattered about. 

Light Birds Luskintyre Beach Harris
Light on the water and sand, Luskintyre Beach, Harris

The pattern of sand in combination with the light and water made for some great shots. 

Walking further along the beach takes you into the towering sand dunes. Once in the dunes, the ragged wind completely disappears. Suddenly, sunlit, you become quite warm. A calm seductive voice in your mind suggests lying down, with a blanket and a book, spending a few hours perhaps, maybe never to be heard from again... Not this time though, we had other islands to see.

Luskintyre Beach sand dunes
Luskintyre Beach sand dunes
  
That afternoon, we drove to Scalpay, stopping off first at the North Harbour Bistro for some delicious seafood (if you visit I can recommend the Monkfish Marsala, though bring your full wallet as it's pretty pricey). A short trip further south-east and we hiked to the Eilean Glas lighthouse. A 40-minute walk takes you right up to the abandoned lighthouse and keeper's home. The place is badly in need of some love, care, and redevelopment. With the right careful owner, it could be a dream - particularly given its unique location scouring the seas out towards Skye.  

Eilean Glas lighthouse
Eilean Glas lighthouse

All too soon, we were queuing for the ferry (with a quick mandatory trip to the Harris Gin Distillery in Tarbet). We felt like we had won the Outer Hebridean lottery - three days of perfect weather, displaying the brutal beauty of Harris off to its very best. 

Sailing away from Tarbet


Next: Hiking on Skye

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