Lewis, Outer Hebrides

The Scottish Islands are wild and brutal; scattered with mountains and lochans, pelted with bracken, stunningly beautiful. I recently ventured to Harris and Lewis in the Outer Hebrides, seeking some respite in the form of sea air and dramatic vistas. 

We flew to Stornoway, Lewis on a grey Thursday morning. The flight was a mere 60-minute burst north from Glasgow. We found ourselves eating eggs and beans in a Lewis cafe before we realised we weren't in the city anymore. 

Our first target was the Uig Sands - a panoramic white sweep stretching as far as the eye can see. We took a long windswept walk on the open sands, watching out for the little, salted proto-rivers which soaked through our boots. 

We walked as far as the old bridge and up onto an overlooking hillock. The weather was brightening by the second and it was looking to be a promising weekend.

Uig Sands Lewis Dog
Dog on the Uig Sands.
Uig Sands Lewis Dog
Daft mutt getting his fill of sea water.


The dog thoroughly enjoyed the wet sand under his paws, although he had to be discouraged from drinking the salty water once the sun had peeked out. Not a drip of survival instinct in that daft hound.

The next stop on our Outer Hebridean road trip was the Callanish Standing Stones. Now, my partner likes to imply that once you've seen the Machrie Standing Stones in Arran, none other can compete. Whilst I'll admit that Callanish doesn't have the atmospheric amphitheatre of mountains that surround Machrie, nor the isolated silence, it's still a beautiful place.

Callanish Standing Stones
Callanish Standing Stones, Lewis.
We finished our day in Lewis by visiting the grand Dun Carloway Broch and the Black Houses. The Broch is an amazing piece of architecture, particularly given the structure is over 2000 years old. At the Black Houses, they have an original tweed loom, which was mesmerising to watch. A perfect balance of delicate weaving and brutal black clacking iron.

Tired now, we packed ourselves into the car and drove south, stopping only to stock up on warm conversation and vegetarian mint soap from the Hebridean Soap Company. We continued through twisting roads and through the gates of a castle...


Next: Adventures on Harris


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